The Kiddo is going to sports camp this summer and I have a ton of stuff to pack for her. I decided I would do a few camp tutorials this week. If you kids are anything like mine packing can be a nightmare and you know they will not come back with everything they left with. I found that if she has a place for everything she will remember everything.
Here is a great travel tote idea. Materials:
1 hand towel – (A wash cloth will make a great small roll)
Ribbon – grosgrain is the most durable
Marking utensil – I started with a pencil then chalk but pinning as I went worked best with this towel color.
Basic sewing supplies Step 1
Lay out the towel wrong side up.
Fold towel up leaving a lip at the top of at least 2″. Step 2
Measure the ribbon based on the size of the towel. I choose 1 and a half-length. The long side will wrap around the roll and tie to the short side.
Pin the ribbon in place. Step 3
Straight-stitch both ends be sure to back-stitch securely along the folded edge.
For added security I 3 point zig zag stitched the edges. Step 4
Measure and place Items. You can use your items to decide your measurements.
Or you can measure basic pocket sizes.
I choose four 4″. Two 3″ and two 1.5″ pockets. (You can see a few of the chalk lines. They help to stitch in a straight line) Step 5
Stitch from top down and back-stitch top, seam and bottom of each line.
Ready to pack.
It is easy to fold and put away when not in use.
I used a vanilla yellow for the embroidery of the name.
A Friend gave me a tablet he no longer used. I was super excited and immediately terrified that I was going to break it. I decided to make a case for it so that I could carry it with me without worrying about scratching the screen in my monster purse. I have been tentatively learning to quilt so the thought train went something like this…. don’t scratch the screen…. padding… interfacing…. QUILTING!!!! And the quilted tablet bag is born.
Measure the tablet. Be sure to add the side measurements and give enough space for sliding the tablet in and out of the bag. The first time I made one of these I used exact measurements and seam allowances and the fit was to snug. I then gave my daughter a clutch purse instead of a tablet bag.
I write everything down and make my own pattern on paper. This way I can make changes as needed on the paper and have it for future reference. I ended up changing the 11″ to 8.5 to make a better fit and it allowed me to get the pocket out on the same rectangle of fabric, but this is how the design started.
Bag Body: 3 rectangles 22″ x 15″
Duck, Batting, and lining
Pocket pieces: 5″ x 15″
Duck and lining
Wrist: 1 14″ strip of webbing (You can make the webbing match the bag by cutting a strip of fabric twice the width of your webbing. You can use either fabric, I choose the Duck.)
(I only quilted one side of the bag. Next time I will add batting to both sides for the extra cushioning, or get thicker batting because I like the puffier quilt feeling.)
Line up your batting and Duck layer.
Place your pins. I chose 2″ apart, but you can choose whatever distance or free motion quilt it.
Begin sewing your lines from Pin to pin. I choose to sew on a diagonal. Keep your 2″ spacing.
I made a little mistake here and stitches a 1 inch spacing because I had a 1 inch pin in the corners to start the second set of lines. I stitched to that pin instead of the right one.
Flip the fabric and start stitching in the other direction.
Layer you body fabric right sides together and set aside. (Do not pin because we have to add the pocket. You can omit step 5 if you would rather not have a pocket.)
Line up the rectangles right sides together
Pin. (I only pin the top)
Stitch the top and bottom of the pocket and turn right side out .
Top stitch the top portion of the pocket. (I used a decorative stitch.)
Place the pocket. Fold the body of the bag at the 8.5″ mark. The bottom of the pocket should line up with the fold in the body of the bag.
(I do not have a pic of this step because I put the pocket in upside down and had to rip the seams and readjust the pocket. Here is the final bag. to help with placement.)
Wrist handle (You can omit this step if you do not want a handle on the bag)
1. Iron the fabric piece like you would bias tape.
Iron the fabric in half wrong sides together. Open up the fabric right side down and fold the sides in to meet the center crease. Iron the sides down.
Line up the fabric and the webbing
Strait stitch around the edges. I also used a decorative stitch down the center for extra hold and to make it match the stitch on the pocket.
Pin the body of the bag. Be sure to leave an opening to turn the bag. I like to make an X with pins at the start and stop point. I will keep you from sewing the bag closed.
I used the foot as my guide for the seam allowance.
Zigzag stitch (fake surge) around the bag for extra stability and don’t forget to clip your corners before turning.
Turn out and top stitch the opening. I used a zigzag stitch. (I should have matched that stitch to the decorative stitch on the pocket and wrist handle.)
Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the body of the bag. I used two straight stitches for stability.
Strait stitch both sides of the bag together.
Be sure to position the handle before stitching or you will have to rip the seams and add it.
I back stitched and used the decorative stitch to add strength to the handle seam. You want this to be secure because this seam will hold the most weight.
You can fold the top flap into the bag and use that as your closure.
I added a Monogram. (Because I just got the machine a few months ago and I love it.)
You can also buy the Iron on monograms.
I used industrial strength tabs because I have an irrational fear of the tablet falling out.
You could put in any closure you want I would not choose a button. If you were to put the carrier in a book bag or lay something on top of it, the pressure could damage some tablets. If you do choose a button, select a flat thin one.
I placed 3 tabs and sewed them by stitching horizontally and vertically. If you use tabs that have a tacky glue, stick them together and place them on the flap. Remove the film from the opposite side and lower the flap. Perfect placement.
If you try it out let me know or post some pics. I would love to see it.
I am making journals and journal covers for my family for the Holidays. I did a quick tutorial on one of the journals and got a great response, so I decided to share the projects with you.
Today is a cover for the note taker in your life. My father is that person for me. He carries a small spiral flip notebook in his pocket at all times. He works for a plumbing company so I wanted to give him something to protect his notes. It is also a great way to carry pocket spiral pads in a beautiful and meaningful way by adding a monogram or initial. I’m positive he will love it and the three notebooks I included.
1 Strip of vinyl 17″ x 4″
Needle and thread/machine/hot glue
Marking pen or chalk to mark folds
Small spiral notebooks
For an added detail I added an embroidered design.
Measure and mark the fold lines for the base and cover.
Fold up the strip to the length of the back cardboard page and mark a line on the fold. This makes a pocket for the notebook.
There are three ways to secure the pocket.
1. machine stitch the sides. I used a blind hem stitch.
2. hand stitch the sides.
3. Run a bead of Hot Glue down both sides of the vinyl and glue the pocket together. Put a heavy book or heavy flat object on the pocket until the glue sets.
A Blind hem stitch stitches both a straight stitch and over the edge.
Slide the back cardboard page in place in the pocket.
The cover is now ready. the pocket is large enough to hold an extra notebook or a pen.
To add a little detail curve the edges of the front. I traced a ribbon spool with chalk and cut out the edge.
One of the items on the Kiddo’s list of camp supplies is a small first aid kit. I thought of making one like the Toiletry roll but thought I would like more pockets than I could get from a wash-cloth. You can use this same design for a travel make-up kit or manicure kit. I used a Nurse Duckie design from Urban Threads to liven up the outer look and an old pair of jeans for the outer fabric. I used scrap fabrics for the entire project.
Have fun and enjoy.
One 12″x13″ piece of fabric
Two 12″ x 7″ pieces of fabric
Ribbon 16″ piece
Basic sewing supplies
Fold Large square in half (6.5″) and sew seam to make a tube.
Turn out and Iron flat.
Line up the seam with the fold point.
Leave at least 1″ at the top. The lip will become another pocket.
Iron the fold to make a crease. The seam should line up with the fold.
Mark the stitch lines in 2″ increments.
Stitch a straight line along the markings on lines 1, 3, and 5.
Layer the pocket on top of the liner fabric. Leave space for the seam allowance on the bottom approximately 1″.
Pin the pocket in place. I pin along the 1, 3, and 5 stitch lines.
Sew along the 2 and 4 lines from the top of the pocket down. Be sure to back-stitch top, bottom, and at the top of the lower pocket.
Fold the ribbon in half and sandwich it between the top and bottom layers.
Pin the layers together. Right-sides facing be sure to mark a space for turning.
Trim the corners and turn out.
Tuck the opening in and Iron the seams flat.
Top-stitch around the outside edge to close the opening and add stability to the seams.
My Aunt gave me a big picnic basket recently and I wanted to dress it up a little for memorial day. I had this Beautiful dessert fabric that worked out great.
I did make a mistake when I positioned the casing that folds over the sides and holds the ties. Just another time when I’m reminded we all make mistakes. And all mistakes can be fixed.
1 yard print for sides, 1/2 yard for the bottom and casing
Ribbon for ties (I was going to use this rope ribbon and instead went with red shoe laces)
Basing sewing supplies – Pins, scissors, etc.
Find your measurements. My basket was thick so I did not have to add a seam allowance because the thickness did that for me. If you are not sure add an inch to the number. If the basket has a lid tape the lid up and out of the way.
Tape basket lid up
Ready to measure
54″ around top (Measure the outside top circumference of the basket)
50″ around bottom (Measure the outside bottom circumference of the basket)
10″ height add an inch or 2 for seam allowance.
Step 2 Cut Fabric
Line up bottom fabric
Top view position basket
Position the basket over the bottom fabric.
Trace bottom of basket
Trace the bottom of the basket. You will have to add a seam allowance if the basket does not have a lip like mine. Tip for seam allowance: rubber band two pencils together (or two pens, a pen and a pencil what ever combination you choose) trace the line and you have your seam allowance.
Cut out the oval
I washed and ironed the fabric when I bought it, a few weeks ago, and did not Iron the fabric again before I cut it out. I would recommend ironing first to have a smoother and more accurate measurement.
Strudel decided to watch my progress from inside the basket.
Measure liner sides 27″ top 25″ bottom 11″ height
Cut the fabric in two 27″ x 11″ rectangles. Best way to do this is to fold the fabric in half. Right sides together. I photographed it right side out because It showed up better. To get this measurement I took the 54″ top and divided by 2 = 27″ and the bottom 50″ divided by 2 = 25″.
Cut the angle 1.” in on the bottom angle up.
To find your angle subtract top and bottom 27-25=2 divide the answer by 2 = 1″.
Measure 1″ (or your number) over on each side of the bottom and mark.
Line up that mark and the top corner and either draw a line and cut or cut with a rotary cutter.
I ended up cutting a little extra (1.5″ instead of 1″)so that you can see the angle better.
Step 4 Casing
Iron casing in half along the length.
Cut your 2 casing strips the length of the top if the lining. Cut the height to at least 4″. My height is a little shorter because I used scraps for the casing.
Fold it in half and iron.
Fold under the ends by 1/4″ to 1/2″ (The amount turned under determines the gap for the handles to fit through) and Iron. The folds will be on the outside while stitching so that they will tuck under when you turn the tube out.
Stitch casing right sides together and turn out. Iron flat
If your are using a patterned fabric be sure to sew the tubes right sides together. I used a chop stick to help turn out the strips after stitching along the length. Iron the strips flat.
Iron to make a smooth opening
As you can see the folds are securely tucked under when turned out.
Step 5 Assembly
Iron oval in 4’s Strips for casing 4″ to 6″ Ironed in half Sides positioned right sides together
A. Lining sides
Pin the liner sides right sides together.
stitch the side seams
I fake serged (straight stitch then zig zag edge) the seams to make clean edges.
B. Attach bottom to lining
Find the center point of the lining by folding it in half
Fold in half and iron a crease down the center. The crease then marks the center of the top and bottom.
Match center points
Line up the center points of the bottom and sides. I lay it out like this first to make sure I am pinning the right sides together (Long sides together). then pin with the right sides of the fabric together.
Pin bottom to sides right sides together
Stitch remember to back-stitch. I fake surged.
Take your time sewing the curves and remember to back-stitch.
Pin the casing in place. Lining up the center points. Remember the opening will line up with the handles.
Here is where I went wrong. Normally I would position the lining in the basket to test out placement. I did not do it here and lined up with the wrong center points.
You will double check that the openings line up with the handles.
Pin the correct center point to the center point of the casing right sides together.
Pin all the way around lining up the edges. You will notice there is a gap between one casing and the other. The handles fit in this gap. and the ribbon will tie around the handle.
Stitch in place. You can do a straight stitch but I almost always zigzag or serge the seams.
Iron casing flat
Iron the casing flat and turn under the raw edge of the opening.
Opening for handles
Top stitch casing down. Stitch opening.
You can use a straight stitch but I chose a decorative stitch for my top stitching.
Lining back of top stitch. Neat edging
The top stitching leaves a beautiful seam on the inside of the liner as well as the outside.
Shoe String Tie
I used two red shoe strings for the ties. One for each casing.
insert lining and tie in place
Insert the lining and position the ties around the handles. Tie in a beautiful bow.
Liner in place
To fix the mistake I trimmed away part of the center of the casing and re threaded the shoe string over the handle. I could have ripped out the seams and realigned the whole thing but I decided not to worry to much. I think I will go pick up some more ribbon and cut it in 4 pieces to tie a bow at each gap to cover the raw edges. I may get some frey check to clean up the raw edges (But if the bow covers it I will not worry to much.) If I were giving it as a gift I would realign the whole thing.
I thought that today I will show you my journey to now. I learned to sew years ago and then put it away as I grew; the way we all do those dreams of child hood. One day many years later my daughter wanted to learn to sew. I would love to say that a new sense of joy filled me, but really I thought, “How long will this last?”. It lasted longer that I thought, but I did not teach her at first, my mom did. I gave myself the job of ironing and cutting the patterns.
I wondered why I was so very stand-off-ish with something I used to love so much. I realize now that giving up sewing was a small heart-break that I did not want to relive.
Then something happened in my life and my daughter’s that changed us both. We needed to heal, to change, and to grow. I got her small sewing machine out and began to sew. Every time I sewed a stitch I was stitching pieces of myself back together. With every random project I was changing who I am, not to someone else but to the best creative me. As I made things and created patterns and learned something new I grew. As I gave those items to others I was giving pieces of joy, hope, earnestness, and healing to others.
The best of all was that I can and do share it all with my smart, creative, wonderful, beautiful, daughter.
You will not often find adult clothes in my projects, other than costumes, for a reason. I have found joy in kids clothes and in costumes. There is happiness when a child feels like a princess and spins in circles, or a girl feels like a strong roman goddess. I love it when their eyes light up and you can see their imagination catch fire. Adults are not like that they want stream lined perfection (I am quite the perfectionist myself), but not the joy. Adults tend to complain and get angry even if the job is perfect. Now if the item is creative and fantastic then there is joy. For Adults I make blankets, bags, home decor. Give someone a quilted blanket, or a hand stitched pillow and they are amazed.
There is a special magic in creativity, that is why I tend to make and imagine my own patterns and designs. I can take an idea and foster it all the way through the project. I also love to see other Peoples thought process and that makes blogs and Pinterest great. I plan to soon show you some of my favorite pins. I even use Google images to get ideas. The best project ideas come from you.