The Kiddo is going to sports camp this summer and I have a ton of stuff to pack for her. I decided I would do a few camp tutorials this week. If you kids are anything like mine packing can be a nightmare and you know they will not come back with everything they left with. I found that if she has a place for everything she will remember everything.
Here is a great travel tote idea. Materials:
1 hand towel – (A wash cloth will make a great small roll)
Ribbon – grosgrain is the most durable
Marking utensil – I started with a pencil then chalk but pinning as I went worked best with this towel color.
Basic sewing supplies Step 1
Lay out the towel wrong side up.
Fold towel up leaving a lip at the top of at least 2″. Step 2
Measure the ribbon based on the size of the towel. I choose 1 and a half-length. The long side will wrap around the roll and tie to the short side.
Pin the ribbon in place. Step 3
Straight-stitch both ends be sure to back-stitch securely along the folded edge.
For added security I 3 point zig zag stitched the edges. Step 4
Measure and place Items. You can use your items to decide your measurements.
Or you can measure basic pocket sizes.
I choose four 4″. Two 3″ and two 1.5″ pockets. (You can see a few of the chalk lines. They help to stitch in a straight line) Step 5
Stitch from top down and back-stitch top, seam and bottom of each line.
Ready to pack.
It is easy to fold and put away when not in use.
I used a vanilla yellow for the embroidery of the name.
Today’s Baby Bath Set Part 3 Hooded Bath Blanket Tutorial is part 3 of a 3 part set. The Bath Set consists of a Bath blanket and wash cloth with a terry towel material on one side and a soft Minky fabric on the other. The bath blanket has the baby’s name and initial appliqued with an embroidery machine. The beauty of this type of gift is that you have many uses from one set. The bath blanket can be a hooded towel or a swaddle blanket. The Washcloth is both a wash cloth and burp cloth. When you are a parent the best items in you arsenal are the ones that do double and sometimes triple duty. Do you have a favorite baby item or gift that works for multiple uses? If so what is it and did you or someone else make it? I made this set as a gift for a friends baby and I hope they like it. The embroidery adds just a little bit of heart to any baby project and makes it unique to the child.
Minky fabric cut to the dimensions of your blanket or towel.
tear away stabilizer
Water soluble stabilizer I use it because it is clear and can tear away easily
Coordinating fabric for the applique. A scrap will work as long as it is bigger than the applique size.
Basic Machine materials – hoop, embroidery thread etc.
*Do not iron minky – You will lose the dots Step 1
Decide where you want your design. Most machines or software come with this wonderful tool to help with positioning. You can also use the top of the hoop.
Remember to leave space for seam allowances when you sew the blanket together.
Hoop the fabric
Stitch the outline layer. (I do not use the water-soluble stabilizer in the applique step because the fabric layering covers the nap of the fabric.)
Layer the scrap fabric over the first set of stitches. Make sure the fabric covers all of the stitch outline.
Stitch the second outline and trim the excess fabric.
The machine satin stitches around the outside.
Lay your clear or water-soluble stabilizer where you plan to stitch the name. This stabilizer helps to keep the nap of the fabric from tangling in the thread and warping or covering the stitches. You will have more support for the lettering and a clear name.
A great up-cycle for baby is to take your well laundered towels and turn them into Baby bibs. Materials for Pattern:
a baby bib
paper – I use large drawing pad paper or used wrapping paper (recycle). You can also tape together sheets of paper. Step 1
lay bib out flat on sheet. I do not pin down because it warps the paper and pattern.
Cut out pattern. Materials for Bib:
Layout pattern and pin
Cut out bib
All you need to do now is attach Velcro on opposite sides and you are done. I choose embroidery and button holes. I also choose not to trim the edges, but you can add bias binding, ribbon, even lace would be beautiful.
Optional – You can use sticky Velcro and hand tack stitch or Hot Glue it into place and use an Iron on Design patch instead of embroidering a design. A fun idea is to put your child’s hand print on the center of the bib with fabric paint and write their age in puff paint. When the child grows out of the bib you have a keepsake.
If you have an embroidery machine or like to hand embroider, these are the steps I follow and stabilizers I used.
Hoop and Embroider designs on bib front. The terry cloth I used was thin and easily hooped. If you use a thicker terry cloth you may want to use a sticky stabilizer instead of hooping the towel.
Crankenstein, All you Need is Love and Cupcakes and I love You Deerly.
I embroidered button holes using sticky stabilizer because you can not hoop the small part of the bib.
Here are the completed bibs.
The embroidery designs purchased from Urban Threads and www.urbanthreads.com
One of my favorite baby gifts is a full-sized hooded towel. Babies grow so fast that the baby size towels don’t last long enough. I deal with this problem by giving a gift that the child can use as they grow, a hooded towel. The towels in this tutorial have names appliqued to individualize the gifts. You can also buy towels embroidered with designs or trim the towels with matching ribbon to add a pop of color.
1 full-sized towel
1 hand towel
basic sewing supplies
(each hand towel makes two hoods so buy 2 towels and then you can make 2 hooded towels and not waste fabric.)
Ribbon for decoration of hood
Find the center of the hand towel and cut in half.
Step 2 (optional)
Measure and cut ribbon for decoration and stitch in place.
Fold in half to make the hood. (I made a mistake in the photo. The ribbon side should be inside the fold. If you cut like this you will have to fold right-side together before pinning and sewing.)
Cut- I used a cake plate to cut my curve in the back of the towel. You can leave the towel squared in the back, but it does not look polished.
Ribbon side together. Pin the hood and stitch.
You can fake surge if you want to add durability.
I trim the bottom corner at an angle to help ease sewing the hood to the base towel.
If you want a lip to the hood fold to the edge of the ribbon. (If you want a thicker lip you can put the ribbon on the inside of the hood and fold it over.)
Pin in place.
Pin the hood to the towel.
Find the center of the towel and pin.
Match the center point of the towel with the center seam of the hood. Right Sides together.
Pin out from there, be sure to pin the folded lip in place.
Stitch hood to towel with a straight stitch.
To create a finished look and durability to the hood fold the seam down and stitch with a zig zag stitch.
The hooded towel is complete.
A great way to package the towel is to fold in threes, roll the towel and secure with a ribbon. Add a wash cloth and a bottle of baby shampoo or a small set of shampoo, lotion, and baby powder.
A Friend gave me a tablet he no longer used. I was super excited and immediately terrified that I was going to break it. I decided to make a case for it so that I could carry it with me without worrying about scratching the screen in my monster purse. I have been tentatively learning to quilt so the thought train went something like this…. don’t scratch the screen…. padding… interfacing…. QUILTING!!!! And the quilted tablet bag is born.
Measure the tablet. Be sure to add the side measurements and give enough space for sliding the tablet in and out of the bag. The first time I made one of these I used exact measurements and seam allowances and the fit was to snug. I then gave my daughter a clutch purse instead of a tablet bag.
I write everything down and make my own pattern on paper. This way I can make changes as needed on the paper and have it for future reference. I ended up changing the 11″ to 8.5 to make a better fit and it allowed me to get the pocket out on the same rectangle of fabric, but this is how the design started.
Bag Body: 3 rectangles 22″ x 15″
Duck, Batting, and lining
Pocket pieces: 5″ x 15″
Duck and lining
Wrist: 1 14″ strip of webbing (You can make the webbing match the bag by cutting a strip of fabric twice the width of your webbing. You can use either fabric, I choose the Duck.)
(I only quilted one side of the bag. Next time I will add batting to both sides for the extra cushioning, or get thicker batting because I like the puffier quilt feeling.)
Line up your batting and Duck layer.
Place your pins. I chose 2″ apart, but you can choose whatever distance or free motion quilt it.
Begin sewing your lines from Pin to pin. I choose to sew on a diagonal. Keep your 2″ spacing.
I made a little mistake here and stitches a 1 inch spacing because I had a 1 inch pin in the corners to start the second set of lines. I stitched to that pin instead of the right one.
Flip the fabric and start stitching in the other direction.
Layer you body fabric right sides together and set aside. (Do not pin because we have to add the pocket. You can omit step 5 if you would rather not have a pocket.)
Line up the rectangles right sides together
Pin. (I only pin the top)
Stitch the top and bottom of the pocket and turn right side out .
Top stitch the top portion of the pocket. (I used a decorative stitch.)
Place the pocket. Fold the body of the bag at the 8.5″ mark. The bottom of the pocket should line up with the fold in the body of the bag.
(I do not have a pic of this step because I put the pocket in upside down and had to rip the seams and readjust the pocket. Here is the final bag. to help with placement.)
Wrist handle (You can omit this step if you do not want a handle on the bag)
1. Iron the fabric piece like you would bias tape.
Iron the fabric in half wrong sides together. Open up the fabric right side down and fold the sides in to meet the center crease. Iron the sides down.
Line up the fabric and the webbing
Strait stitch around the edges. I also used a decorative stitch down the center for extra hold and to make it match the stitch on the pocket.
Pin the body of the bag. Be sure to leave an opening to turn the bag. I like to make an X with pins at the start and stop point. I will keep you from sewing the bag closed.
I used the foot as my guide for the seam allowance.
Zigzag stitch (fake surge) around the bag for extra stability and don’t forget to clip your corners before turning.
Turn out and top stitch the opening. I used a zigzag stitch. (I should have matched that stitch to the decorative stitch on the pocket and wrist handle.)
Stitch the bottom of the pocket to the body of the bag. I used two straight stitches for stability.
Strait stitch both sides of the bag together.
Be sure to position the handle before stitching or you will have to rip the seams and add it.
I back stitched and used the decorative stitch to add strength to the handle seam. You want this to be secure because this seam will hold the most weight.
You can fold the top flap into the bag and use that as your closure.
I added a Monogram. (Because I just got the machine a few months ago and I love it.)
You can also buy the Iron on monograms.
I used industrial strength tabs because I have an irrational fear of the tablet falling out.
You could put in any closure you want I would not choose a button. If you were to put the carrier in a book bag or lay something on top of it, the pressure could damage some tablets. If you do choose a button, select a flat thin one.
I placed 3 tabs and sewed them by stitching horizontally and vertically. If you use tabs that have a tacky glue, stick them together and place them on the flap. Remove the film from the opposite side and lower the flap. Perfect placement.
If you try it out let me know or post some pics. I would love to see it.
I had a lot of fun working on this project and there are so many ways to mix and match designs and colors to fit any holiday.
The Kiddo has to have a green shirt for St. Patrick’s Day at school so I decided this one would work. I got lucky and Hobby Lobby had a sale on their t-shirts and I got the two for $2.50 each. A tank top would work for the undershirt as well. This project is a great way to upcycle your old t- shirt.
2 cotton t-shirts of different colors
Template – I printed a shamrock design
Sewing machine and basic supplies
Be sure to wash and dry the t-shirts before sewing. Tuck one shirt into the other and smooth out the creases.
Decide where you want to have the design. My design template was too small so I free-handed the design using the printout as a reference guide.
Pin around the design through both top layers of the t-shirts.
Slowly stitch the outline on your machine keeping the layers pinned and flat.
Draw lines through the design, mine is an inch apart.
Stitch following the guide lines and be sure to back-stitch the beginning and end of each line.
Cut in-between each line. Only cut the top layer of the t-shirt.
If you want the fabric to roll more cur along the outer edges.
To finish the shirt you can trim the edges of the sleeves and the hem of the top t-shirt fold over and stitch in place.
The T-shirt is ready
I embroidered the word lucky to the t-shirt to add a little fun.
Full Lucky Shamrock T-shirt
Depending on the type of marking pen you used wash the t-shirt and you are ready to go.